The sweet smell of Rome ....

As soon as you step off the plane, the air hits you.  Moist and full of something that is at the same time familiar and unusual.  Italy has a certain smell that makes it Italy.  It immediately transports me back to my early years here when I am sure those smells has first etched themselves in my brain.  The smell of caffe' in the air even at the airport tells you your are someplace different. The cars have a different smells, people have different smells: the mixing of cheap cologne and cigarette smoke as you walk down the street at 8am is another thing that takes me back. (There are many more people who smoke here than I am used to).

But when I think of what my most memorable smells of Italy are, I am embarrassed to say that diesel trucks, burning slash piles and garbage bins on the side of the road is what first comes to my mind.  In fact, a little while back we were in a little teashop in Madison and one of the delicate green teas they were offering was called "The Sweet Smell of Jerusalem".  The first thing that came to my mind was anything but sweet (even never having been to Jerusalem).  The smell of the city is unmistakable and I know I would not call my tea "The sweet smell of Rome"! The same is true for New York or some back alleys of Chicago.  Now that I think about it, Reykjavik doesn't smell too bad (except on a 2am on a Saturday outside of the rows of nightclubs and bars).

Nevertheless, there are other smells that are equally etched that come slowly to the surface.  The (truly) sweet smell of the bakeries cooking up their ciambelle, the wood-fired oven cooking up my favorite breads, the smell of a Norcineria (the little shops where you go and buy cheese and salamis).  That is when the full odor landscape starts to form - you just have to give it some time.  And now, with the warming breezes starting to become more common, the delicate and unmistakable smell of the yellow Mimosa trees are telling me that it is not only Italy, but that spring is coming.  Too bad my allergies are a mess!

Ciao, Claudio

Il Polentone

Being here for longer than a weekend or two we have the luxury of going and doing things that are not on the touristy to-do list.  From a guidebook loaned to us we found a little "borgo" (old medieval town) that was not too far and from the pictures looked like it was worth a visit.

Castel di Tora is about an hour or so east of Rome and as we read the fine print in the little description of the place, we noticed that there was in this town an annual festival, the first Sunday of Lent, which was today.  So we geared up to go to the Polentone festival and managed to recruit Zio Sandro and Zia Anna Maria to join us.

The little town's one steep main street to the top was closed off to traffic and was lined on one side with salame and cheese vendors, hat makers and the occasional shoe salesperson too.  On the other side was the tented area near which they were preparing the polenta.  Two large kettles heated by wood fires each manned by two burly guys with long wood poles.  They stirred the polenta which was bubbling inside as they slowly moved around it in unison.  Every five minutes a backup team would take over.  The tired team would stop to have the occasional glass of wine and would eventually take their turn again after a few minutes.  The smoke made everything smell heavenly, as did the cooking of sausage in a different area.  Although it was Lent, and the sauce that was to accompany the polenta was fish-based (and excellent), you have to ease into things and a few sausages can't hurt.

As the polenta was done, they would lift the kettle and dump the contents out onto a large table.  There it rested with billows of steam coming off it.  As it set, the heaping mound would be attacked on multiple sides by a team a string wielding slicers who would carefully carve 1cm slices of the pieces of polenta.  They would be plated covered with a thin layer of sauce and served up to the waiting crowd.  They even had a numbering system so people wouldn't get too feisty waiting for their serving.

After a nice walk through the narrow streets of the town, which was carefully restored and very well-maintained, we made it back to the car.  It may have been the first time in a long time that we went to such an event and heard no other foreign languages spoken.  Our occasional English was the only one hitting the cool winter air.

A whole new wardrobe!

Part of the deal of playing on an Italian soccer team was that we had to buy the requisite gear. We thought that meant the jersey (and maybe shorts) for the team. This was a rec team after all. Well, here is a list of the items that they got: (included is everything they need to play on the team minus the backpack).

1. The "kit" (uniform), Shirt, shorts and socks for the game (lt. blue shirt, white shorts and white socks, :) Unfortunately Lazio colors.) The kit comes with 2 shorts and 2 pr. socks.

2. Winter long sleeved jersey (dk. blue)

3. Presentation outfit: maroon sweatpants and sweatshirt (purpose, warm up before game and line up for the ref) - Paolo is sporting that on the left.

4. Practice, dk blue sweatpants and sweatshirt, black practice shorts, maroon shirt (Elena is sporting that)

5. Maroon rain/wind jacket

6. Hat and gloves

7. Parka (Elena has that on)

8. Polo shirt with tuscolum logo (we think that is extra, just because you need a t-shirt to wear around :)

What's with this Buzz dude?

 

Dear Google,

I think we need to talk.  I know you and I have been roommates for a couple of years now, but I think you're starting to turn into a jerk.  That Buzz friend of yours you brought over the other night was totally rude!  I thought we had an agreement: you would ask me when you were going to have a party or a get-together, and I would have veto power.  I know I don't pay rent, and the place is huge.  And you let me throw all my junk around and you hide it everywhere.  All I have to do is ask and you bring it right to me!  And all the cool toys you have.  Good times.  

But then this Buzz guy shows up.  I was just standing there and he started rifling through my stuff.  Before I could get to him he had the contents of my wallet all turned out on the counter and the wind started blowing them out the window.  And then, he had the gall to start calling my buddies up (on my own cell!) and invited them to come over!  I haven't even talked to some of them in a couple of years.  And I don't even like most of the people in my contact list. And now they know what I did in Vegas.  That dude is totally a Buzz-kill. 

Me and you are going to have to start over. I know you said "the team was working hard respond to all the excitement over Buzz" but what I really hope you meant is that you were were also having heart palpitations about this dude.  If you want to bring him over again, make sure he cleans up, learns some manners, and of course, the rules of the house still apply: you ask me nice, and I still have veto power.

Sincerely,

Claudio

Carnevale!

Since we arrived there has been confetti littering the ground and evidence of silly string battles everywhere. When I asked about this, I was told, "Its Carnevale!" Yesterday was the last day of Carnevale. I knew there was a famous celebration in Venice with parades and costumes and the Pulcinella who walks through the streets singing. I didn't know that it was a celebration all over Italy. Frascati used to have a large celebration, I found some great pictures from years past on the internet. But we didn't see one this year. That doesn't stop some of the festivities. Elena was involved in one of them, the spray foam or silly string fights. Some say you have to be careful during Carnevale, walking in the streets, you could be sprayed by a stranger. But we managed to avoid attack. Last weekend, the official celebration time, the square in Frascati was covered with confetti, the ground was invisible, and little children were running around wearing costumes of all sorts, throwing the confetti on friends and family. It's almost like their Halloween but without the trick or treating.

That isn't to say there aren't treats. There are Castagnole and Frappe. Castagnole are named after castagne (chesnuts) because they are about the right size and shape. A better translation is, they are very delicious donut holes. Some are filled with creams, others just covered in sugar, and of course they are fried! The Frappe are fried as well. They are long, thin crunchy cookies, plain, powdered sugared or dipped in chocolate. Yummmmm!

Poopy lane

One of the really fun things I have been able to do since we have arrived is to get into a different morning routine.  Each day Elena and I walk the 1.5km (1 mile) to her school.  After the first week or so, we got our time down to about 15 min at a brisk pace.  I get to do it twice a day, there and back since I got pick her up at 1:20p also.  On the way there we stop at the alimentari to get a slice of pizza bianca for her merenda, the little snack they can have to get them to the end of school.  On Tuesday's Elena orders it stuffed with salame so she can make it to her 2:20p release time.

The walk itself is hardly along a very scenic route.  The meager sidewalk goes along a busy road that on rainy days is moving with traffic at a crawl.  We usually get to school before the cars do.  There is a stretch of road along our route of about 500m that is basically the public doggie dumping ground.  There is absolutely no public etiquette when it comes to cleaning after your dog.

I have gotten to know the varies little piles quite well.  Some have slowly been oozing across the sidewalk as the rain (and snow) have been slowly dissolving them.  Others are probably petrified, there since the very first day we started walking.  I know which light posts to avoid, the trees to pass on the left (not the right) and particularl zones where there is more activity than others.  The scientist in me wanted to see if I could estimate the poop flux by measuring how many new ones appear each week and how many disappear over time.  I have set a goal for myself to make it this whole sabbatical without stepping on one.  Elena wished me luck on that one!  So I leave you with this little haiku that Elena and I thought of this morning as a parting thought:

Oh little brown turd,
you look at me like you want
to jump on my shoe.

Oh, how I wish Italian dogs could do this!

Claudio and Elena

Church Bells and Dog Yells

Every Saturday night Elena says, "don't wake me up in the morning." Sunday is her only morning to sleep in. We all promise not to bother her. Then, at 9:30 AM, "Church bells and dog yells" wake her up every time. The church nearby doesn't chime its bells regularly except on Sunday and there are a few dogs in our building or close by who find this inspirational and break into song.  She gets some extra sleep, but her natural alarm clock limits the late sleeping. 
Ciao,
Brenda

Snowy day

I have already gotten complaints here from my colleagues who are blaming me for bringing the bad weather. Rome gets snow once every 25 years and yesterday they got about 1 inch. Frascati was in a state of stupor. People were taking their kids out of school early for fear of what, I am not sure. Paolo's class had 5 kids left by the time class got out! The snow did come down fast and thick, and it gave everything a nice thick coat of white, but it was mostly melted by evening - we got maybe 5-6cm. This morning brought a wonderful light with the everything having a little dusting remaining. This didn't stop people from strapping on their chains on their tires! I have to say, though, that hilly streets and a thin sheet of ice (melted snow which refroze overnight) makes for treacherous walking. Claudio

  

AUTOMATIC BOOGER PICKER

This is the infomercial that I wrote for theater homework (credit to papa for giving me the idea):

The AUTOMATIC BOOGER PICKER! No booger picker can beat this one! Simply attach to your nose, press go and let the booger picker do the rest. Comes in a new case; your choice of suede, jean, bedazzle, stripe, polka dot, or any plain color you want! call now and you'll get a second booger picker for only half price! only 1,299,362 dollars! WARNING: do not let the AUTOMATIC BOOGER PICKER go to far up your nose. STARBIRD INC. will not be held liable for any injuries attained by the AUTOMATIC BOOGER PICKER. Remember: Call now and get a second booger picker half off. 1-800-booger, once more 1-800-booger. And call in the next ten minutes and you can get the ear wax picker for only 999,999 dollars! But only while supplies lasts. Call 1-800-booger. Once more, 1-800-booger. One more time so you'll remember it 1-80o-booger.

Gol di Okaka against Siena in the 88'.

The Italian commentary is just perfect Roman! Listen until the end. Roma moved into sole 2nd place with that win.

Tutta Roma

During our trip to Rome, Paolo was unfortunate enough to lose his winter knit cap.  The one that Rob got him.  The one that was red, with the Man U logo on it.  Even though it was Manchester, it was a bummer for him to lose its since it is actually needed here.  Today we went to Frascati to do some grocery shopping and stumbled into a little hole in the wall place that was adorned with all sorts of soccer-related goods.  Jerseys, mugs, jackets, you name it they had for just about every team.  We poked in and I asked whether they had team caps.  The jovial owner looked at me and said, "Are you talking about Roma? 'Cuz that not just another team." Of course Roma, I said. What was I thinking. Cg

Grumpy old lady....

This morning we woke up to lighting and thunder right over our heads.  On my walk to school with Elena, there were heaps of pea-sized hail on the ground, but fortunately the weather improved before we left.  Paolo doesn't have school on Saturday's so he was busy bouncing off the walls when I got home.  We sent him outside (under the balcony of our apartment to stay out from the rain) to play with his skateboard and soccer ball.  Then, the grumpy old lady came out.  I am assuming it is the same old lady who came out to yell at Elena yesterday for playing on the grass.  "You will ruin it" is what Elena translated it to.  Today Paolo got yelled at for the generic "You can't do that here" - at least that is what he thinks she said.  I guess some things don't change.  I remember my brother and I getting yelled for all those things when we were kids here.  And then we complain that kids sit around getting fat these days.....

Claudio and Paolo

Getting settled in

We thought we would start a little blog were we can dump some our daily goings on and quirky observations.  This is a work in progress and we especially need help on the title of the blog.

Any suggestions?

We'll try to post as often as we can without getting annoying!
Ciao,  Claudio

wow! we're here!

Hey, this is Elena!

Things have been going by so fast. We are finally getting into a daily routine. Like on monday, there is a singing garbage man. Every day before school starts I get a piece of pizza from a small grocery store. The nice lady who cuts my pizza is named Silva. I go to school from monday to saturday. Every day except for tuesday and saturday, I have a 5 hour day. On tuesday I have a 6 hour day and on saturday it is a 4 hour day. I'm having a great time at school. every one is very nice. I have decided religion class is a joke and that my Tec. teacher is crazy. I really don't like english class because (even though it's the easiest class) the teacher makes me do most of the reading and correcting home-work. I don't get any lunch, but I get a merenda, or a snack, in the middle of the day. I have the possibility of playing soccer. Paolo and I will play for the same club. I would play on a team with one girl on it, all the rest of them boys. We'll see how that works out. Ciao

Paolo's first post

Hi its me Paolo.
Today  I  played soccer in Italy for the first time. The team I play on is named Tusculum GIOC. I had lots of fun playing soccer again after a broken finger which delayed me 6 weeks until I could play again. My coache's name is Simone.                                                          
The drills we did were 1 v1 , don't let the defense get the ball, and  touch the ball 5 times you get a point .  We also did a scrimmage.

 Ciao!